Whilst I wait for my car to be repaired, it's Shanks's pony for me, at least at the weekend. I live about three miles outside the city centre, so it's not a long walk if the temperature is friendly, so, on Thursday night, I walked in to meet James, the other teacher, for dinner. We met up at the Tibesti at about 8, thinking that this was well after the fast had broken, but we arrived just as they were closing. As usuual here though, persuasion worked, and we had a very fine and extended repast. The city really wakes up in the late evening during Ramadan, so the streets were buzzing when I went home close to midnight.
The following day, I repeated the journey, but this time in the heat of the mid-morning - a very different experience. I think this is the hottest I've experienced it, so by 10.00 am it was really quite warm. By midday, it's too hot to hang around outside for more than a few minutes. There aren't many taxis in Benghazi, and very little public transport other than mini-buses which follow routes and stopping points known only to the locals, so an alternative has developed - everyone is a taxi. If someone is seen walking, hopeless and forlorn in the words of St Bob, every other car toots and slows, asking if you want a lift. Because petrol is so cheap, even if they're going in the opposite direction, a quick diversion is easily accommodated to get you to your destination. There's rarely any discussion about cost - get in, travel, and agree a price on arrival. I always give 2 dinars, and it seems to work OK.
Not having a car at the weekend has turned out to be a bit of an opportunity - I've walked roads I've never seen before, got lost, found myself again, and generally done the hot shoe shuffle. Walking allows you to see things which fly past when you're driving:
Ramadan is a time when families get together even more than normal, so big meals are the order of the day. Nothing is wasted.
I ventured into the old part of the city today, past this old building which looks like it is well down the list for renovation. I think it's probably from the short Italian era when so much building took place, and I would guess it's the town hall, but I'll check this with someone.
Beyond this square is the oldest part of the town, and it hasn't changed since I was here 35 years ago. It was very different from the parts of town being renovated now. I felt it would be intrusive to take photographs, but maybe I'll make another visit at a quieter time.
Here's a picture of a typical buiding - so many are having their outer cladding stripped off, either by hand or electriic hammers. In a couple of years this city will look so different.
And finally, some signs of the times. Although Roman script is no longer illegal (it was legitimised about five years ago), there is still a recognition that some people in positions of high authority would rather not have it thrust in their faces when they're in town, so many signs have had the Western words temporarily papered over.
